Thursday, November 19, 2009

Chhoti Si Baat

Thanks to Youtube, I saw this movie again....it is timeless and I can watch it umpteen times..

Amol Palekar plays a wide-eyed, shy and awkward Arun Pradeep, who is besotted by Vidya Sinha (Prabha) and is unable to express his feelings for her even as he stalks her relentlessly...His awkward mannerisms are perfect...fidgeting, rubbing his nose and touching his hair...On the topic of stalking, Prabha does not mind...and in fact misses it when he is away...cultural differences..:)..and it somehow seems sweet and non-threatening...Vidya Sinha is so appealing and beguiling...I can easily see anyone falling in love with her...very understated style...always in pastel-colored or geometric pattern sarees with her long, dark hair...[She had a tough personal life according to wiki]..

Getting off-topic here...returning to the movie, Arun is not taken seriously by anyone in his office including the peon...He is a nice and sincere guy and hence no one listens to him. Nagesh (Asrani) enters the scene and he is a smart ass with a neon yellow scooter who dominates conversations and is an insensitive loud-mouth pursuing Prabha...Arun tries to fight this competition and gets cheated in the process when a bunch of dubious characters sell him a broken-down motorbike...Everything is going downhill for poor Arun...He visits astrologers, magnetist (??), palm-readers and a charlatan (in the guise of a sadhu). He also tries charms and amulets...but to no avail [interesting note: he looks up his weekly horoscope and he is a Capricorn according to the movie...hahaha..which I know he is not- Sagittarius].

Then he visits Colonel Singh (Ashok Kumar) in Khandala who is a lifestyle trainer and who has a hilarious set of diagnosis for him: 'improper conditioning', 'defective verbal communication', 'unstable paranoid' and his treatment- 'special courtship training'. Colonel gives Arun tips on confidence building and getting girls...I detect a hint of lechery in Colonel's interactions with the young, attractive girls he has employed...macho behavior for sure.

As a result of this training, Arun returns to Bombay a confident man who manages to assert himself everywhere...workplace and romance...He has also become a bit more treacherous and the director Basu Chatterjee is clever in inserting this shift in character...as it seems this is Arun's way of getting back at the mean people...loss of innocence.

Of course, Arun gets Prabha...and now Nagesh goes for training to the Colonel...

A few (not many) irksome things:
The females just sitting and observing the males play table tennis and chess...why can't they play?...Prabha does play table tennis initially...but not later...
Nagesh (Asrani) orders food for everyone (Prabha and Arun ) without asking their preferences in the restaurant as he is bossing around the waiter...he is shown to be annoying..so that fits well...and boy, it is controlling and patronizing...This is not a criticism of the movie...Chatterjee provides a realistic glimpse of some blowhards...:)

Things I liked in the movie:

1. The natural scenery of Bombay (Bombay then and not Mumbai)...the everyday routine and realistic portrayal of the characters in everything right from their clothes to their conversations...scenes in the office where everyone has adjoining desks and bonhomie between Prabha and her friend..
I fantasize about working in Bombay as I watch this... dressing up in a saree, taking the bus and...working in a similar office..
2. Attention to minute details...Arun (Amol) noting and describing sarees and gestures of Prabha (Vidya)
3. Extremely funny moments - e.g. what Arun fantasizes about...shooting Nagesh on the street when he takes Prabha with him and leaves him to pay their bill in the restaurant..
e.g. how Arun manages to irritate Nagesh after his training by making him wait..and wait...and all with a pleasant smile...one can learn some great tips on annoying people with a smile...and driving them nuts...priceless..
4. Vidya Sinha's sarees and everything about her.
5. Amol Palekar is a natural...and I admit I like his awkward and non-cool persona, prior to Colonel's training, more..
6. Ashok Kumar has done this same role in a couple of other movies...he still manages to infuse it with warmth, wit and a swagger...perfect as a worldly-wise guardian angel for the innocent Arun.
7. Asrani shines in this role....his arrogance dissipating into frustration...he is a smart one...not his usual slapstick routine...another natural.
8. Loved the short friendly appearance by Amitabh (in his heyday)...coolness personified.
9. Salil Chowdhury's music...here are two great ones

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3h1Vc_ur0Dg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmpnC9pTcxQ

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

On Jim Thorpe

I learn new things everyday. I saw a documentary on Jim Thorpe, the legendary Olympian.. I remember Dad talking about him in glowing terms all my life...the famous exchange between Thorpe and King Gustav of Sweden (Booku laughingly narrating this..:) after his 1912 Summer Olympics win in Stockholm

King Gustav: 'You, Sir, are the greatest athlete in the world.'
Thorpe: 'Thanks, King'.

Sweet. Unpretentious.

I learnt that he was part Native American. What an athlete... He played American football, baseball, basketball and athletics (pentathlon and decathlon) and excelled in all; considered the greatest athlete of the 20th century....and a sad life...died in poverty despite reaching such heights.

In Olympics, Native Americans (I refuse to use the term Indians...though Original Americans would be a good one) and other non-white athletes (including African-Americans) were considered 'wards of the US' and not citizens...this is so unfair...I am disheartened by human cruelty.
He was stripped of his Olympic medals (thankfully returned much later) because only amateurs were allowed in Olympics i.e. athletes should not play for money as it was expected that only the privileged and rich had an idea of what real sports is....not people in the workmen class.

The biggest shocker for me (yeah, I am ignorant) was that Native Americans were not considered US citizens till almost 1924...the nerve! How unjust on their own land.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

River Sutra

River Sutra by Gita Mehta

I just read River Sutra based on stories centered on the Narmada river. I learnt new things about this river. The Sanskrit name means 'giver of pleasure'...and even a more provocative name.
It has never changed its course in hundreds and thousands of years.
The writing style evokes a vivid image of green mountains, gushing currents of the river in monsoons...tribal beliefs and legends...and also beliefs of Jainism, Sufism, music, Shiva all together...it is a heady and intoxicating mix...

Memorable lines:

From the Jain monk who has renounced the world
'Human heart has only one secret...the capacity to love'

Imrat, the blind musical prodigy singing Rumi's verse:
"The heat of your presence
Blinds my eyes
Blisters my skin
Shrivels my flesh.

Do not turn in loathing from me.
O Beloved, can you not see
Only Love disfigures me?"

Silk disguises strength in softness; water erodes the unforgiving nature of stones.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Vegetarian adventures in this WORLD

I love food...I dream...I plot...I experiment..and then when I travel..begins the struggle.
I have been vegetarian..always....and I am ecstatic that I am....:)
Food around the world is devoted to meat eaters...India is a vegetarian heaven...another reason I consider myself lucky to be born in that land (among several other)...but what about other places??..In places where English is not widely spoken, I make sure I learn the words for 'vegetarian', 'no meat no fish'...

In Spain, I was hungry a lot...and managed to get something...here are some memorable foods I remember (Vegetarian in Spanish -vegetariano pronounced with a B instead of V)
Tortilla (potato omelette thing)..over and over again
The best mushrooms sauteed in olive oil and subtly spiced....flavorful
Salted Peppers fried in oil
Mango yoghurt...slurp!

In Thailand, N helped me....(Jeh is Thai for vegetarian/vegetables)
Some of the foods...
Fried rice with vegetables - not as good as Indo-Chinese available in apna desh..:)
Papaya salad---green raw papaya with chillies, lemon juice, peanuts...tangy..the best salad ever!
The awesome tropical fruits of Thailand...my favorite is Longkong....enormous, juicy lychees, mangosteens and of course the smelly fruit durian ...I ate a durian holding my breath..it has mango-like consistency but the overpowering smell made it difficult for me to appreciate it more....my sense of smell being highly acute..

Then the memorable time in Mae Sot (border town in North Thailand close to Burma)...
Tea leaf salad--- young tea leaves, tomato, peanuts, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, fried garlic, & lemon..tie with Papaya salad...these salads are the best
Tamarind tofu---can anything go wrong with the delightful Indian date- tamarind?...the original date is not a patch...:)
Hot thin rotis smeared with condensed milk in the dhabha near the Mosque...yummm..

Cambodia

Banana and pineapple pancakes

Some travel memories and more








Blog are very self-indulgent and I continue in the same vein. After writing my diary entries about Japan here, I started thinking of experiences and moments in other new places.


Before arriving in a new country, I am breathlessly excited and almost always feel a little bit let-down afterwards...not because I am a pessimist (a whole new blog entry for that) but because I have this notion that it will be totally different from what I have seen so far.

This entry is a brief account of my impressions and moments landing in a new place starting from my very first trip outside India to the US of A. I often remember things from a long time ago...my fourth birthday..I am sucking orange toffees in the balcony on a sunny January afternoon...and Mummy is inside and no one else is around...this moment is frozen...mentally, I don't see a dramatic change in me either....haha..
Starting from my first few days in the US, some unforgettable moments:

The air is crisp and the sun sharp when N and I step out into the street. I am enamored by the well-dressed people in suits in Manhattan...

An unforgettable image..on Fifth Avenue at the traffic light a newly wed East Asian couple runs across the road, stops in the middle and kiss with people cheering them...and then they step into a limousine.
In the classroom, I am surprised by the sight of students with drinks and food as the instructors teach...how quiet I was at that time... The informality of the instructors is fascinating....a different academic world.
I get into an elevator and a stranger smiles and says hello...I am taken aback and start liking it.

Spain
Impressions of Madrid, Toledo....

People milling around in the subway station...in Plazas...in streets...dressed in leather, women in heels and pants so long they sweep the streets.

All parts of animal meat displayed like art exhibits in the shops....bright shining New Year lights and the music...Feliz Navidad played in malls....the produce salesman at the shop forbids me to touch fruit before buying it....I do not like it.

In Toledo, we meet a beautiful woman in an exquisite art shop...white hair and green eyes dressed in pink with a sparkling smile and a pink ribbon in her hair...We struggle to communicate without a common language... and naturally :) we ask her birth date....she does not understand...N hums the Happy Birthday tune and she gets it...runs to a calendar and points to February 14...


Thailand

The tropical foliage of this part of the world is simply heaven...the fruits...the flowers...the leaves....the waters...Bangkok is just fine...not worth spending more than a couple of days..

What is better....north Thailand going towards Burma...where army men check our IDs vigorously...the town Mae Sot so close to Burma...we see Burma across a river...it is like India..lots of people of Indian origin residing here...the most amazing food we had here...(a whole new blog on food for determined vegetarian travelers..:)..the pouring rains....ahaa...nothing is like rains in this part of the world...dream of going to Rangoon (Yangon now) one day....introduced to Burmese food and am not the same since....delicious is an understatement.


Siem Reap, Cambodia

Teenagers and younger kids chase you down to buy wares in this dusty and dimly lit town....settle in a guest house...with alligators in the back yard!...I peered through the curtains and saw two of them basking in the sun...oddly, I did not feel any fear...

At Angkor Vat, again face a deluge of eager sellers who will say anything to sell their wares including praise of feminine beauty...My heart is racing as I climb up and down the steep stairs in different enclosures in the complex.

Images from Ramayana and Mahabharata adorn huge walls ...and incongruously (or perhaps not), statues of Buddha installed in the temples covered in saffron cloth....

At night as we crave desi food, we step into an Indian restaurant and eat possibly the worst food...There is no other customer and an over eager host...should have been a red herring..
European tourists flocking the restaurants in the evening...Saw a menu which stopped me dead in my tracks....snake, kangaroo, ostrich and alligator..hello!...are those alligators in the back yard ending up on a plate??..yikes....see the menu..








Saturday, October 10, 2009

Movie time

New York, the movie

Engaging movie. Taut. There was an editor in the house actually..:)...I love movies which are well-edited...Naam - a notable example. Anyway, this movie starring John Abraham, Katrina Kaif, Neil Nitin Mukesh and Irrfan Khan was good. Peformance wise (with no surprises): Irrfan > >> Neil > Katrina ~ John > the stilted random American actors.
Music flowed in with the story...no jarring notes. I liked the realistic portrayals of New York neighborhoods especially Brooklyn.

Some minor quibbles:
Quibble 1: Where were the families? conveniently absent I guess...at least one of them could take care of the kid after his * SPOILER ALERT * parents are dead!
Quibble 2: The students on the American University campuses in Hindi movies seem to be having waay more fun and games and bonhomie than I have seen ...with all the time spent on campuses..
Quibble 3: Where do the actors who play Americans come from? Some parallel universe where even poor John would come across as a great thespian in comparison...lol!

Well these are minor points...it was well-made and understated even though *SPOILER ALERT* I did not understand why Katrina had to die....too sad.

John manages to emote a bit in some of the scenes...his pure-heartedness and charm still shines through (sorry, having a tough time being objective..;)..nevertheless, I admit he is the weakest actor except the director is clever enough to give him less speaking time. Katrina is good as the idealistic and sympathetic Maya. Neil is the best out of three (which is not saying a lot)...his shy and hesitant demeanour makes him the most real character out of these three. He infuses some passion in his role. Irrfan can sleepwalk through such roles and yet he does not. His witty everyday remarks (especially the one about his hatred for pasta) makes me wonder every time (in this movie and others) if he writes his own dialogues or does the writer suddenly get creative... a true actor he is.
Special bonus points for the director Kabir Khan....He did not make another thoughtless and predictable love story/action/drama. I did not have high hopes from this one and I was pleasantly surprised...Go Kabir!

Overall rating: 3.7 out of 5 stars
Pros: slick editing, good music, Irrfan, sometimes Neil, beauty on display (JA and KK)
Enough said.

Sweet Spree

I am on a sweet spree...I made besan ladoos and badam katli a few days ago.

Besan ladoos:
I cooked besan (chickpea flour) on medium heat till it emitted its characteristic odor. Then I added ghee (the more the merrier...:)...actually 1: 0.5 proportion/ besan: ghee) and cooked some more till it was brownish. I had to be careful and I kept stirring and did not raise the temperature. Then I added sugar (amount depending on taste...I like it just right). I kept tasting it to achieve the right balance. Then I stirred some more and finally added some slivered almond. Stirred and heated some more. Let it cool....Viola!...pressed into the ladoo form (circular)...Relished it once a day..:)

Badam katli..
This was even simpler. I soaked slivered almonds overnight. The next day, I put these almond in a blender with a little milk for a paste-like consistency.
Then I transferred the almond paste onto a skillet with sugar (according to taste..balance is the key again..:)..I keep tasting it. I cooked on low to medium heat for some time. It took me about 25 minutes...stirring regularly to avoid charring. It formed a soft lump. I tasted it and it seemed ready (very scientific I know..:). Let it cool. Then I pressed it into rectangular form (the rhombus shape was difficult for me)...tasted like marzipan.
HAPPINESS.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Review of 'The Housekeeper and the Professor'

'The Housekeeper and the Professor' by Yoko Ogawa .

I read this short book and discovered the possibility of beauty of numbers. This mind needs to expand and soar high. One thing I realized after reading this book is the uniqueness of Japanese writers. I find their precision, their attention to details, and expression of subtle and understated emotions very appealing...so much is said in so few words...a delight...I find them shorn of the jadedness and anger I have come to associate with some American/Western European novels...Things are not shoved into your face...at the same time, it is not faux abstraction. There is a beauty of romance I find hard to associate in any of the current genre of writing from England or the US.

This book revolves around a professor of mathematics and his housekeeper. The Professor lost his short-term memory after an accident and cannot remember anything beyond 80 minutes. This short-term memory loss scenario has been explored in different places (including 'The memento' and 'Ghajini'). Further, he remembers things prior to his accident (before 1975) in great detail...especially the numbers.
What makes this story poignant is the love the Professor feels for numbers and manages to draw in a woman without a high school education for the same...I have sometimes thought of numbers in trivial ways...(e.g. how any number besides 0 (let's say X) added to 9 results in a two digit number and this 2 digit number always adds up to give the original number X....e.g. 9 + 4 = 13.....add up 1 and 3 and you get 4).
In this book, the Professor waxes poetically about numbers and he finds comfort in then...He loves prime numbers and states how difficult it is to find prime numbers as they keep growing larger.
Interestingly, this story also talks about fate indirectly...the Professor believes that something akin to a divine scheme brought the Housekeeper and him together because of their numbers...her birthday is Feb 20 (220) and his watch has an engraving of 284....these two numbers are called 'amicable numbers' and Fermat and Descartes were able to find only one each...They are amicable because the factors of each adds up to be equal to the other number!
and I loved this line by the Housekeeper..'my birthday and his watch had overcome great trials and tribulations to meet each other in the vast sea of numbers'.....fate? destiny?

The characters in this story are not named. The Housekeeper's son is named Root by the Professor because his hair look like a square root sign. The Housekeeper is an illegitimate daughter and her son is an illegitimate son. Their longing for a family is evident in their quick bonding with the Professor who forgets them every day and asks them the same questions repeatedly. His love for Root is all enveloping and seems to almost override the impact of memory loss. I adored his comparison of children with prime numbers...'He treated Root exactly as he treated primes...For him, primes were the base on which all other natural numbers relied; and children were the foundation of everything worthwhile in the adult world'.

The Housekeeper, Root and the Professor enjoy baseball and talk about it...they visit a game too ...I did not find these discussions particularly illuminating...except that Enatsu, the great player's number was 28...which is a perfect number ...why?..because 28 = 1+2+4+7+14...the sum of divisors of 28 is 28.

Professor : Numbers existed long before world was formed...
Housekeeper: I always thought humans invented them
Professor: No...if that were the case, they won't be so difficult to understand...and there would be no need for mathematicians.

This was a remarkable conversation for me...I never thought of it...it makes perfect sense too..

A related discussion of the number zero (0)
Housekeeper: Wasn't there always a zero?
Professor: No, humans made the zero, through great pain and struggle. The ancient Greeks thought there was no need to count something that was nothing...and since it was nothing, they held that it was impossible to express it. So someone had to express this reasonable assumption and figure out how to express nothing...A great Indian teacher of mathematics discovered the zero written in God's notebook...and thanks to him, we can read many more pages in the notebook....We can distinguish between 38 and 308..Despite what the Greeks thought, zero doesn't disturb the rules of calculation; on the contrary it brings greater order to them.

Again, what a revelation!...I was dumbfounded by the simplicity and the profoundness of mathematics here...As you will note, the Professor is spiritual...he acknowledges God's hand everywhere...talks about God's notebooks into which the mathematicians try to peer.

His pleasure at watching the Housekeeper cooking...the detailed description of the salad, egg and pork...and how it evokes a deep sense of satisfaction for the Housekeeper in a daily task overlooked by many and considered mundane....It is all in the details (my perception).

Some notable quotes from this book:

'A mathematician once said, 'Math has proven the existence of God, because it is absolute and without contradiction; but the devil must exist as well, because we cannot prove it.'
Maybe this held true for love too, the Housekeeper pondered..

'The truly correct proof is the one that strikes a balance between strength and flexibility.'...this might hold true for so many other things...what we humans wish to achieve..

'He believed that mistakes were often as revealing as the right answers.'

' A problem isn't finished just because you have found the right answer.'

I was never sure of an undercurrent of a romantic connection between the Housekeeper and the Professor as it is never directly alluded to by the Housekeeper (who is the narrator)...She is deeply attached to him and admits to feelings of jealousy once her role is usurped....the sister-in-law of the Professor is jealous of her closeness and she remarks cruelly, 'You see, my brother-in-law can never remember you and he can never forget me'....

Verdict: A simple story made exemplary by the beauty of numbers.
Recommended: Highly
Words which spring to my mind after reading this: moving, eye-opening, poetry and music of math.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

A rail station

What is it about a railway station in cities and towns in India which makes it a tableau of many moments...pulsating with life...A lady decked in red bridal bangles and a sparkling yellow salwaar kameez cheek in hand turned sideways waiting for the train surrounded by metal trunks and suitcases. A man sleeping near his luggage possibly awaiting the train to a far-off place...I want one day to just go to a railway station and ask every person what their final destination is...how long is their journey and how long have they waited...how many stops...And then I want to check out every vendor's wares...drink in the sights and sounds....mostly holding my breath...smell or stench of metal, urine, sweat, food, flowers (sometimes)...heady mix.
I would chat with coolies...the frayed and faded red kurtas and their turbans...some of them thin and spindly still carrying huge loads on their heads...chased by the haggling customer...200 is too much...100 is fine...whatever you think is just...the platform number of trains and the exact location of a bogey on the platform...family and friends say their good byes and chat about mundane details...time and transportation to and fro to the destination....children chase each other from one end to the other under the watchful, admonishing eye of a parent. The sing song feminine voice streams through the speakers...please pay attention....ears strain to hear the time of their trains...
The railway platform beyond the shed filled with carts of pipping, sizzling pakodas..water splashed on to the cemented floor...green benches nearby...a man snoozing in broad daylight hands and feet splayed on the green bench...oblivious to the fun and ruckus around. A leafy tree gives shade to the sleeping man from the unrelenting sunlight. The skinny, mangy dog continues to hunt for the elusive scrap...
Free Jal sewa (free water service) by the cheerful couple...the man in a bright orange t-shirt scampers around with colorful plastic glasses of water- lime green, pink, red, yellow...while the lady sits near a big tub of water filling each glass and hands it out to him. The waiting rooms reminiscent of an older time...build by the British...high ceilings...dark brown wood...ah ha...reminds me of the movie Ijaazat....where a bespectacled Rekha and Naseer talk endlessly in a remote station waiting room lit by a single candle...what a dramatic setting to any story...maybe a scary movie...oooh!

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Japan 2006...Kyoto

Kyoto

June 19, Monday

Reached Kyoto in the evening. Westin Miyako was very contemporary. Enchanting. In fact, I have never encountered ornate style in Japanese (ancient or modern) art. The staff were breathless in their efforts to please. Obliging, effusive, gentle...Americans could take a leaf out of their books in terms of gentleness. No vulgar and ornate art anywhere. I was reminded of our Infancy conference in Chicago Hilton which was so different. The beds were supremely comfortable and I never notice these things ever! Kyoto is surrounded by lush mountains. It is not crowded. I could see some traditional architecture from the sixth floor (my room number was 6059). Met R and her entourage and went to a small place for dinner. I just ate salad...just wary of the possibility of meat or fish in other dishes. Collapsed on my bed that night. It had been a long day.

June 20, Tuesday

I registered for the conference and got my award after some hand-wringing and fretting by the staff just because they were 15 minutes late. I proceeded towards the poster session...will not elaborate on the conference...Exception: I was really nervous about my poster. It went without a hitch. Met K after 2 years and she was skinnier. Sweet and interested.
In the afternoon, we decided to go to the Nijo Castle. Met J and D at the hotel. J was busy comparing Japan and Korea throughout his trip (he is of Korean origin). He did not have a high opinion of Japan. Some bad blood between the two countries.
Nijo Castle was not very old. Samurais had lived here till 1850s. The floors creaked as we walked barefoot on them. These floors are famously known as Nightingale floors. The squeaking did remind me of birds chirping. It was simple with clean cuts...very different from the palaces I have seen earlier. Different scenes were depicted in the palace with life size figures (e.g. ladies-in-waiting and maids attending the samurais; samurais in the kings' courts). There was a famous painting on one of the walls of a leopard. The Eyewitness Guide states that Japanese artists actually believed that leopards were 'female tigers' for the longest time. Rushed through the rock garden as the palace was closing at 5 pm...American-style timings. We went to a 7-11 for water and ice-cream. A lady from the store ran a long-distance after us just to return the map. We were impressed. Turned into another alley full of quaint little shops. I bought wind chimes. Saw some Indian material (incense, woodwork, artwork).
Later in the evening, Dr S (native of Japan) took us all (R and her entourage included) to a traditional Japanese restaurant. We sat on the cushions on the floor near low tables...and the food kept coming...Dr S was sweet and remembered vegetarian options for me. The amounts were small..served on exquisite, tiny dishes..Very little spice but still flavorful..Great eggplant. It was dimly lit. Kyoto seems more traditional than rest of the country. I saw a couple of men and women in kimonos.
After the long traditional dinner, we roamed the streets for a while. We ran into a 7-11 (recurring theme, it seems) which had cans of oxygen with different flavors (mint, grapefruit)! It was a hilarious situation. R, C and Dr M bought oxygen and inhaled it. They broke into peals of laughter. Dr S translated the label for us..'For modern people facing a lot of stress'. It was a wonderful night.

June 21, Wednesday

My poster session went smoothly. I decided to explore Kyoto on my own. Walked to Heian shrine. It was spectacular even from a distance. It's orange-red color stood in stark contrast to the sky and the mountains. This shrine was constructed to commemorate Kyoto as the capital. The emperor was the major deity of this shrine (maybe Shinto reference). I asked a couple of people to take my pictures. Then, I proceeded to Kyoto Handicraft Center. Some people seemed amused and surprised to see a foreigner by herself...giggling school boys. Rushed back in time for the Banquet Reception. Prince 'Forgot-his-name' was the guest of honor. Very ceremonial with a lot of bowing and men in traditional clothing playing music. After some tedious speeches, we settled down for a four-course dinner...

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Japan 2006...Nagoya, Fujiyoshida and Tokyo

These diary entries are from my visit to Japan in June 2006. I might have written differently if I had gone now....but I will stay faithful to the original entries.



Thursday, June 15, 2006

8:55 am , Roanoke Airport

Waiting for the 9:56 am flight to Chicago from where we fly to JAPAN. Am pretty excited!



Saturday, June 17, 2006

7:15 am, Nagoya

Arrived here last night with M. The plane stopped at Kansai Osaka International Airport. As N expected, everything was super-organized. I have yet to see a more sparkling clean airport. Not fancy or flashy. In fact, Japan uptil now seems extremely clean. Even the back alleys I saw on the train from Osaka to Nagoya were dirt free and the air seemed clean and fresh. Tokyo is probably different I think.. On the train, I was besotted by the countryside - neat paddy fields, artistic houses (with the typical greyish/brownish colored roofs like a pagoda) and bright cars which look very efficient (no ugly SUVs or even big cars). Saw Toyota Corollas as taxis. People drive smaller cars here.

Uptil now, a remarkable feature of Japan is the quietness/stillness which emanates from everything. Noise levels are very low especially to the ear of a person raised in the cacophony of India. People are very sweet and courteous. Dad would love Japan - cleanest people ever. I think I read somewhere that cleanliness is a synonym of beauty in Japanese culture. How apt. People are little too..It is difficult to spot mature-looking men and women (according to my untrained eye). It seems they go straight from adolescence to old age physically. Surprisingly, I saw a lot of school girls in uniform. I read a novel, Kinshu (Autumn Brocade) by the Japanese author Teru Miyamoto (good book- emotional upheavals of ex-spouses) where the schoolgirls on the trains are described.

The dress code is predominantly western (as I expected). Males in dark suits and females in skirts or dresses (short). One thing I noted was that several Japanese women (in fact all of them) are slim with thick legs. Anomalous? Great skin and hair but personally speaking Chinese and Korean girls are prettier (so far).

We are staying at a youth hostel with a room of our own. It is in Japanese style. Bamboo mats line the sleeping area (90% of the floor). There is a low table with a thermos flask with hot water, blue teapot and little cups with a box of green tea bags. Had a cup an hour ago.[There is a clothesline strategically placed over the AC. N would love it...and the windows open too!]

Very charming. There are slippers available near the entrance of the room and the bathrooms so that you remove your shoes and wear the slippers. Not to forget, horror of horrors, communal bathrooms! Was forced to use it yesterday as badly needed a shower. There was no one last night except an effusive young thing (who was not embarrassed at all). I waited for her to leave and took a shower hurriedly. An older woman entered and she bowed. Multiple faucets and a jacuzzi where people take a final dip. I did not try it.

As expected, finding vegetarian food was problematic especially with the language barrier. Nagoya is not a common tourist destination, it seems. People tried to help. At 7-11 yesterday (yes, they are ubiquitous), a young man and a woman tried to help me a lot but because of cash problems,I had to go to another place. Got a couple of odd looks yesterday probably because people are not used to foreigners here. Will visit Nagoya castle tomorrow.



3:15 pm

We are on the train to Mount Fuji. Spent some time in Nagoya. Went to the Nagoya Castle which had been bombed during WW II but several parts had been recovered, Reconstruction is still going on. It was surrounded by a dry moat filled with pebbles. It was very humid and I am still sweating. One of the girls who assisted me with an ATM at the Nagoya train station asked, 'Why did you come to Japan in such bad weather?'

In the castle, saw pieces of art...a replica of figures hauling rocks to build the moat. Went to the Ninomaru Garden and Teahouse which is nearby. The word on the street is that if you drink tea in this teahouse, you add 5 years to your life. They served us cake (more like jelly) and bowls of green tea. Got my picture taken with smiling, pretty kimono-clad hostesses. It was a very serene place. Japanese decor is delicate and exquisite. Would love to incorporate it in my own home. Also, ate green tea icecream near the castle. Very few foreigners. An Indian family (lady in churidar) just passed me. Then, we visited 3 shrines near the city hall (shinto - shrine; buddhist - temple). Blue, purple and pink hydrangeas encircled some of the shrines. All of the shrines have a little enclosure with water for people to wash their hands and drink. A man indicated this to us by miming it. Ate at a small place in JR Nagoya station where I managed to get a cucumber salad with sweetish- reddish beans and a tofu dish. She asked us about our countries (in fact guessed mine- India) and said we had good eyes. The train from Nagoya to Fuji involved 2 stops (Nagoya to Otuski and Otuski to Fuji). Very scenic countryside. Big green mountains and streams with rocks (somehow reminded me of Madhopur). Very different from South-West Virginia and the East coast of the US (even Smokies). Needless to say, I find this more appealing. Was nauseous most of the time. So I could not appreciate it more. Reached Fuji station at night. Bought few groceries (milk, juice, fruits) at a mall in the train station.

We took a cab to our hotel which turned out to be another charming Japanese place (Ryokan, I think). Very traditional. Saw real flowers in vases with cotton plants (interesting combination) all over. I took a shower with really cold water. Slept like a log. Saw some World Cup (Football) action on TV with M - Argentina thrashing Serbia & Montenegro 5-0.

Woke up around 7 am. Ate a very traditional Japanese breakfast seated on cushions near very low table.

Menu: salad (greens, onions)

Miso soup with tofu (did not eat because of fear of fish broth)

Plain tofu

Rice

Seaweed wrapped

Pickled vegetables with tofu (cabbage, carrots)

Egg (was being slowly cooked in front of us on fire as we ate! did not know the covered dish contained an egg!)



Saw the lush greenery outside the windows and rain dripping down the leaves. Then we decided to look around. Walked to a cluster of ponds which faces Mount Fuji....but it was so cloudy that day, we could not see the mountain. Wisps of clouds floated over the mountains. Ethereal! It was either drizzling or raining most of the time. Saw 2 big yellow fishes in a small pond. Went to a shop which was perched right next to a pond with 2 cranes who were the cynosure of all eyes. This shop had souvenirs and traditional food. I got a thermometer for home and chopsticks. Hiked further and saw a desolate shrine. M wanted some cash and we hunted for an ATM. We found a post office and her spirits rose.

While returning from the post office, we came across a shrine where monks were reading scriptures (?) followed by chanting. It was raining heavily now. We sat in an enclosure facing the sanctorum. Memorable experience. Wish N and Dad were here.

I explored the back side of the shrine and stumbled on a huge cemetery which was packed (very little space between headstones). The cemetery was 'guarded' by a huge grey statue of a woman holding an infant (could not figure out who this might be) and in front of her, smaller grey-colored statues wearing red capes. A family in black came out of the shrine...funeral?

Left this place...and returned to the shop where I ate a hot rice cake stuffed with beans...sweet. I bought 3 different kinds of rice cakes (Mochi).



June 18, 2006

We returned to our Ryokan and packed our bags and the kind gentleman (who was transfixed by baseball on TV) called a cab for us. He had lent me a raincoat earlier in the day.We bade him good bye and Arigato.

As our train started approaching Tokyo, I saw greater number of buildings and the countryside disappeared. One thing I noted was that even in the dingiest building, some form of greenery was prevalent. Japanese love plants. Almost every shop has flowers growing in pots. Exceptionally healthy plants. Saw the ubiquitous Americans signs of MNCs...KFCs, McDonalds, 7-11s....shudder!

Trudged with our bags to the Tokyo Hostel where the receptionist (African guy) spoke fluent English. This hotel is packed with Caucasians (primarily from Australia and the UK). An older, verbose Chinese guy from Amsterdam told me about his journeys in Japan and China. He asked me, 'Are you shy to talk?'...amusing.

This hostel is very different from Madrid's...bamboo matting all over the floor; Japanese artwork on the walls. We don't wear shoes or slippers except in the bathroom. A common kitchen-dining area adjoining the living room with a big TV. World Cup was a hot topic. Aussies and Britons seem even less inhibited than Americans. We went out for dinner. M was out of cash and had not checked before ordering food and drinks (thought credit would work). Managed to get help from an Aussie from the hostel by exchanging dollars for yen...interesting transaction.

I visited my 'favorite' 7-11 for milk and a funny-looking ice cream (banana coated with a chocobar...cheap and yummy).



9:15 am

Right now, I am sitting in the living room. There is an Asian guy who is doing yoga...lithe

I headed out to Akasuka. It was hot and humid as usual and I was ready with an umbrella and sunglasses. I wore my flowery, breezy skirt and peach top. Walked on alone with trepidation...did not want to lose my way. Asked (or rather confirmed) the route with several people along the way. Streets were full of people. I stopped at a shop filled with the unique dishes of Japan...I fell in love with these dishes in the restaurants. While I was examining the wares, a couple of clowns beating big drums passed by. One of them greeted me heartily. and asked ,'From India?'..I was bewildered as I said yes. He said..'beautiful'..and went merrily his way..India is beautiful...most unique place I have seen.

I picked up several pieces in this shop where two very courteous people moved silently in the background as I peeked in all the nooks and cranies of the shop. Very different from the aggressive advertising among Indian shopkeepers..:)

I moved on further and suddenly reached the typical doorway with red cyclindrical objects painted with the Japanese script. This doorway to the shrine was followed by a long bazaar-like alley. Some tacky and ornate stuff on display. Ate Japanese apricot ice-cream, which was fresh and flavorful. Rummaged in several shops....reached the shrine at last. It was surrounded by a garden. There was a huge urn in front of the shrine in which some wooden objects were burning, Some Japanese people were trying to inhale it with their hands (akin to the Indians waving their hands on the pooja thaali). I bought a special wooden object on which I wrote my name and age and gave it to the lady who told me that the priest would burn these wooden plates.

Supposedly, there are several types of these plates signifying things like longevity, desires and dreams, healing sickness, etcc. I chose the 'desires and dreams'...well, one always has some..:)

The Buddhist philosophy, I think emphasizes freedom from desires and dreams as the ultimate goal. This might be a Shinto shrine..?..(I checked..it is a Buddhist temple). Sadly, the history was not available in English. Returned to the hotel at 2:30 pm and started for Kyoto in a Bullet Shikhsai train. Did not seem any faster but it did reach Kyoto earlier than other trains. The countryside did not seem particularly enchanting...maybe I was tired hauling luggage around in the humidity.
Kyoto next..

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Laugh and cry- daily feature

What made you laugh...and cry today?

Cry (teary) when I read this quote by Keats

I long to believe in immortality. . . . If I am destined to be happy with you here--how short is the longest life. I wish to believe in immortality--I wish to live with you forever. - Keats

Laugh (silliest thing)

I mixed the two words 'elderly and old' and said olderly in class...and then laughed out aloud...along with the students..

Monday, September 14, 2009

Kuch experiences...

Idlis paired with fresh salsa (tomatoes + onions + chillies + garlic + lemon juice + cider vinegar + salt + pepper)

Greek yoghurt + peeled fresh peaches + walnuts...pour honey on this mix = jannat

Rain + thunder + lightning + night + no work = dramatic bliss

Bazaars in India + rickshaws + layers of clothes sprawled in front + (how do I say it is waay over the top...'please something less flashy')

Jasmine flowers + breeze + temple + tender coconut water

Railway platform in India + vendors + holding my breath (record time) + heart racing + slow start of the trains...will someone miss the train?

Sun signs.....period

Eclectic

Eclectic names....I wanted to select a name encapsulating a few of my favorite things....Mawsynram is possibly the wettest place on earth...in my favorite part of the world. And the way the word Mawsynram swirls in my mouth... ultimately settling in..delicious.
Rain and lots of rain is my idea of paradise (jannat...love the language)...and I often live in khwaab-istan (dreamland)...so arose Mawsynram khwaab. I want to write about my experiences, thoughts, opinions on zillions of things...
And I will start compiling a list I can dwell on and write..and...and...and I will write like no one is going to read this ever...(of course I live on the 'effusive praise' diet)

My List of interests (alphabetically):
Amour
Brave souls, books, body language
Charm (and lack of)
Dance, drama
Elephants, elegance, eyes (body language)
FOOD, Finesse, fashion, fights (civilized and the other kind)
Green
Hotness (multiple possibilities...:), Hindi movies
Incredible !ndia
Jaan
Kismat
Lemons, lips (body language)
Mist, mornings, mmm, music
Novelty (always fun?)
Ominous clouds, behavior
Peers, pity
Qismat
Random things, reviews, recipes
Sweet and sour (the best combo), spicy, sleep, signs
Trees, temples, tamarind, traffic
Umbrellas, United States
Victory
What, where, why, when, whom....whatever is whacko
XX and XY
Yaar log
Zindabaad, zephyr, zzzzz...

So here's to some fun times!