Japan 2006...Kyoto

Kyoto

June 19, Monday

Reached Kyoto in the evening. Westin Miyako was very contemporary. Enchanting. In fact, I have never encountered ornate style in Japanese (ancient or modern) art. The staff were breathless in their efforts to please. Obliging, effusive, gentle...Americans could take a leaf out of their books in terms of gentleness. No vulgar and ornate art anywhere. I was reminded of our Infancy conference in Chicago Hilton which was so different. The beds were supremely comfortable and I never notice these things ever! Kyoto is surrounded by lush mountains. It is not crowded. I could see some traditional architecture from the sixth floor (my room number was 6059). Met R and her entourage and went to a small place for dinner. I just ate salad...just wary of the possibility of meat or fish in other dishes. Collapsed on my bed that night. It had been a long day.

June 20, Tuesday

I registered for the conference and got my award after some hand-wringing and fretting by the staff just because they were 15 minutes late. I proceeded towards the poster session...will not elaborate on the conference...Exception: I was really nervous about my poster. It went without a hitch. Met K after 2 years and she was skinnier. Sweet and interested.
In the afternoon, we decided to go to the Nijo Castle. Met J and D at the hotel. J was busy comparing Japan and Korea throughout his trip (he is of Korean origin). He did not have a high opinion of Japan. Some bad blood between the two countries.
Nijo Castle was not very old. Samurais had lived here till 1850s. The floors creaked as we walked barefoot on them. These floors are famously known as Nightingale floors. The squeaking did remind me of birds chirping. It was simple with clean cuts...very different from the palaces I have seen earlier. Different scenes were depicted in the palace with life size figures (e.g. ladies-in-waiting and maids attending the samurais; samurais in the kings' courts). There was a famous painting on one of the walls of a leopard. The Eyewitness Guide states that Japanese artists actually believed that leopards were 'female tigers' for the longest time. Rushed through the rock garden as the palace was closing at 5 pm...American-style timings. We went to a 7-11 for water and ice-cream. A lady from the store ran a long-distance after us just to return the map. We were impressed. Turned into another alley full of quaint little shops. I bought wind chimes. Saw some Indian material (incense, woodwork, artwork).
Later in the evening, Dr S (native of Japan) took us all (R and her entourage included) to a traditional Japanese restaurant. We sat on the cushions on the floor near low tables...and the food kept coming...Dr S was sweet and remembered vegetarian options for me. The amounts were small..served on exquisite, tiny dishes..Very little spice but still flavorful..Great eggplant. It was dimly lit. Kyoto seems more traditional than rest of the country. I saw a couple of men and women in kimonos.
After the long traditional dinner, we roamed the streets for a while. We ran into a 7-11 (recurring theme, it seems) which had cans of oxygen with different flavors (mint, grapefruit)! It was a hilarious situation. R, C and Dr M bought oxygen and inhaled it. They broke into peals of laughter. Dr S translated the label for us..'For modern people facing a lot of stress'. It was a wonderful night.

June 21, Wednesday

My poster session went smoothly. I decided to explore Kyoto on my own. Walked to Heian shrine. It was spectacular even from a distance. It's orange-red color stood in stark contrast to the sky and the mountains. This shrine was constructed to commemorate Kyoto as the capital. The emperor was the major deity of this shrine (maybe Shinto reference). I asked a couple of people to take my pictures. Then, I proceeded to Kyoto Handicraft Center. Some people seemed amused and surprised to see a foreigner by herself...giggling school boys. Rushed back in time for the Banquet Reception. Prince 'Forgot-his-name' was the guest of honor. Very ceremonial with a lot of bowing and men in traditional clothing playing music. After some tedious speeches, we settled down for a four-course dinner...