'The Housekeeper and the Professor' by Yoko Ogawa .
I read this short book and discovered the possibility of beauty of numbers. This mind needs to expand and soar high. One thing I realized after reading this book is the uniqueness of Japanese writers. I find their precision, their attention to details, and expression of subtle and understated emotions very appealing...so much is said in so few words...a delight...I find them shorn of the jadedness and anger I have come to associate with some American/Western European novels...Things are not shoved into your face...at the same time, it is not faux abstraction. There is a beauty of romance I find hard to associate in any of the current genre of writing from England or the US.
This book revolves around a professor of mathematics and his housekeeper. The Professor lost his short-term memory after an accident and cannot remember anything beyond 80 minutes. This short-term memory loss scenario has been explored in different places (including 'The memento' and 'Ghajini'). Further, he remembers things prior to his accident (before 1975) in great detail...especially the numbers.
What makes this story poignant is the love the Professor feels for numbers and manages to draw in a woman without a high school education for the same...I have sometimes thought of numbers in trivial ways...(e.g. how any number besides 0 (let's say X) added to 9 results in a two digit number and this 2 digit number always adds up to give the original number X....e.g. 9 + 4 = 13.....add up 1 and 3 and you get 4).
In this book, the Professor waxes poetically about numbers and he finds comfort in then...He loves prime numbers and states how difficult it is to find prime numbers as they keep growing larger.
Interestingly, this story also talks about fate indirectly...the Professor believes that something akin to a divine scheme brought the Housekeeper and him together because of their numbers...her birthday is Feb 20 (220) and his watch has an engraving of 284....these two numbers are called 'amicable numbers' and Fermat and Descartes were able to find only one each...They are amicable because the factors of each adds up to be equal to the other number!
and I loved this line by the Housekeeper..'my birthday and his watch had overcome great trials and tribulations to meet each other in the vast sea of numbers'.....fate? destiny?
The characters in this story are not named. The Housekeeper's son is named Root by the Professor because his hair look like a square root sign. The Housekeeper is an illegitimate daughter and her son is an illegitimate son. Their longing for a family is evident in their quick bonding with the Professor who forgets them every day and asks them the same questions repeatedly. His love for Root is all enveloping and seems to almost override the impact of memory loss. I adored his comparison of children with prime numbers...'He treated Root exactly as he treated primes...For him, primes were the base on which all other natural numbers relied; and children were the foundation of everything worthwhile in the adult world'.
The Housekeeper, Root and the Professor enjoy baseball and talk about it...they visit a game too ...I did not find these discussions particularly illuminating...except that Enatsu, the great player's number was 28...which is a perfect number ...why?..because 28 = 1+2+4+7+14...the sum of divisors of 28 is 28.
Professor : Numbers existed long before world was formed...
Housekeeper: I always thought humans invented them
Professor: No...if that were the case, they won't be so difficult to understand...and there would be no need for mathematicians.
This was a remarkable conversation for me...I never thought of it...it makes perfect sense too..
A related discussion of the number zero (0)
Housekeeper: Wasn't there always a zero?
Professor: No, humans made the zero, through great pain and struggle. The ancient Greeks thought there was no need to count something that was nothing...and since it was nothing, they held that it was impossible to express it. So someone had to express this reasonable assumption and figure out how to express nothing...A great Indian teacher of mathematics discovered the zero written in God's notebook...and thanks to him, we can read many more pages in the notebook....We can distinguish between 38 and 308..Despite what the Greeks thought, zero doesn't disturb the rules of calculation; on the contrary it brings greater order to them.
Again, what a revelation!...I was dumbfounded by the simplicity and the profoundness of mathematics here...As you will note, the Professor is spiritual...he acknowledges God's hand everywhere...talks about God's notebooks into which the mathematicians try to peer.
His pleasure at watching the Housekeeper cooking...the detailed description of the salad, egg and pork...and how it evokes a deep sense of satisfaction for the Housekeeper in a daily task overlooked by many and considered mundane....It is all in the details (my perception).
Some notable quotes from this book:
'A mathematician once said, 'Math has proven the existence of God, because it is absolute and without contradiction; but the devil must exist as well, because we cannot prove it.'
Maybe this held true for love too, the Housekeeper pondered..
'The truly correct proof is the one that strikes a balance between strength and flexibility.'...this might hold true for so many other things...what we humans wish to achieve..
'He believed that mistakes were often as revealing as the right answers.'
' A problem isn't finished just because you have found the right answer.'
I was never sure of an undercurrent of a romantic connection between the Housekeeper and the Professor as it is never directly alluded to by the Housekeeper (who is the narrator)...She is deeply attached to him and admits to feelings of jealousy once her role is usurped....the sister-in-law of the Professor is jealous of her closeness and she remarks cruelly, 'You see, my brother-in-law can never remember you and he can never forget me'....
Verdict: A simple story made exemplary by the beauty of numbers.
Recommended: Highly
Words which spring to my mind after reading this: moving, eye-opening, poetry and music of math.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
A rail station
What is it about a railway station in cities and towns in India which makes it a tableau of many moments...pulsating with life...A lady decked in red bridal bangles and a sparkling yellow salwaar kameez cheek in hand turned sideways waiting for the train surrounded by metal trunks and suitcases. A man sleeping near his luggage possibly awaiting the train to a far-off place...I want one day to just go to a railway station and ask every person what their final destination is...how long is their journey and how long have they waited...how many stops...And then I want to check out every vendor's wares...drink in the sights and sounds....mostly holding my breath...smell or stench of metal, urine, sweat, food, flowers (sometimes)...heady mix.
I would chat with coolies...the frayed and faded red kurtas and their turbans...some of them thin and spindly still carrying huge loads on their heads...chased by the haggling customer...200 is too much...100 is fine...whatever you think is just...the platform number of trains and the exact location of a bogey on the platform...family and friends say their good byes and chat about mundane details...time and transportation to and fro to the destination....children chase each other from one end to the other under the watchful, admonishing eye of a parent. The sing song feminine voice streams through the speakers...please pay attention....ears strain to hear the time of their trains...
The railway platform beyond the shed filled with carts of pipping, sizzling pakodas..water splashed on to the cemented floor...green benches nearby...a man snoozing in broad daylight hands and feet splayed on the green bench...oblivious to the fun and ruckus around. A leafy tree gives shade to the sleeping man from the unrelenting sunlight. The skinny, mangy dog continues to hunt for the elusive scrap...
Free Jal sewa (free water service) by the cheerful couple...the man in a bright orange t-shirt scampers around with colorful plastic glasses of water- lime green, pink, red, yellow...while the lady sits near a big tub of water filling each glass and hands it out to him. The waiting rooms reminiscent of an older time...build by the British...high ceilings...dark brown wood...ah ha...reminds me of the movie Ijaazat....where a bespectacled Rekha and Naseer talk endlessly in a remote station waiting room lit by a single candle...what a dramatic setting to any story...maybe a scary movie...oooh!
I would chat with coolies...the frayed and faded red kurtas and their turbans...some of them thin and spindly still carrying huge loads on their heads...chased by the haggling customer...200 is too much...100 is fine...whatever you think is just...the platform number of trains and the exact location of a bogey on the platform...family and friends say their good byes and chat about mundane details...time and transportation to and fro to the destination....children chase each other from one end to the other under the watchful, admonishing eye of a parent. The sing song feminine voice streams through the speakers...please pay attention....ears strain to hear the time of their trains...
The railway platform beyond the shed filled with carts of pipping, sizzling pakodas..water splashed on to the cemented floor...green benches nearby...a man snoozing in broad daylight hands and feet splayed on the green bench...oblivious to the fun and ruckus around. A leafy tree gives shade to the sleeping man from the unrelenting sunlight. The skinny, mangy dog continues to hunt for the elusive scrap...
Free Jal sewa (free water service) by the cheerful couple...the man in a bright orange t-shirt scampers around with colorful plastic glasses of water- lime green, pink, red, yellow...while the lady sits near a big tub of water filling each glass and hands it out to him. The waiting rooms reminiscent of an older time...build by the British...high ceilings...dark brown wood...ah ha...reminds me of the movie Ijaazat....where a bespectacled Rekha and Naseer talk endlessly in a remote station waiting room lit by a single candle...what a dramatic setting to any story...maybe a scary movie...oooh!
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Japan 2006...Kyoto
Kyoto
June 19, Monday
Reached Kyoto in the evening. Westin Miyako was very contemporary. Enchanting. In fact, I have never encountered ornate style in Japanese (ancient or modern) art. The staff were breathless in their efforts to please. Obliging, effusive, gentle...Americans could take a leaf out of their books in terms of gentleness. No vulgar and ornate art anywhere. I was reminded of our Infancy conference in Chicago Hilton which was so different. The beds were supremely comfortable and I never notice these things ever! Kyoto is surrounded by lush mountains. It is not crowded. I could see some traditional architecture from the sixth floor (my room number was 6059). Met R and her entourage and went to a small place for dinner. I just ate salad...just wary of the possibility of meat or fish in other dishes. Collapsed on my bed that night. It had been a long day.
June 20, Tuesday
I registered for the conference and got my award after some hand-wringing and fretting by the staff just because they were 15 minutes late. I proceeded towards the poster session...will not elaborate on the conference...Exception: I was really nervous about my poster. It went without a hitch. Met K after 2 years and she was skinnier. Sweet and interested.
In the afternoon, we decided to go to the Nijo Castle. Met J and D at the hotel. J was busy comparing Japan and Korea throughout his trip (he is of Korean origin). He did not have a high opinion of Japan. Some bad blood between the two countries.
Nijo Castle was not very old. Samurais had lived here till 1850s. The floors creaked as we walked barefoot on them. These floors are famously known as Nightingale floors. The squeaking did remind me of birds chirping. It was simple with clean cuts...very different from the palaces I have seen earlier. Different scenes were depicted in the palace with life size figures (e.g. ladies-in-waiting and maids attending the samurais; samurais in the kings' courts). There was a famous painting on one of the walls of a leopard. The Eyewitness Guide states that Japanese artists actually believed that leopards were 'female tigers' for the longest time. Rushed through the rock garden as the palace was closing at 5 pm...American-style timings. We went to a 7-11 for water and ice-cream. A lady from the store ran a long-distance after us just to return the map. We were impressed. Turned into another alley full of quaint little shops. I bought wind chimes. Saw some Indian material (incense, woodwork, artwork).
Later in the evening, Dr S (native of Japan) took us all (R and her entourage included) to a traditional Japanese restaurant. We sat on the cushions on the floor near low tables...and the food kept coming...Dr S was sweet and remembered vegetarian options for me. The amounts were small..served on exquisite, tiny dishes..Very little spice but still flavorful..Great eggplant. It was dimly lit. Kyoto seems more traditional than rest of the country. I saw a couple of men and women in kimonos.
After the long traditional dinner, we roamed the streets for a while. We ran into a 7-11 (recurring theme, it seems) which had cans of oxygen with different flavors (mint, grapefruit)! It was a hilarious situation. R, C and Dr M bought oxygen and inhaled it. They broke into peals of laughter. Dr S translated the label for us..'For modern people facing a lot of stress'. It was a wonderful night.
June 21, Wednesday
My poster session went smoothly. I decided to explore Kyoto on my own. Walked to Heian shrine. It was spectacular even from a distance. It's orange-red color stood in stark contrast to the sky and the mountains. This shrine was constructed to commemorate Kyoto as the capital. The emperor was the major deity of this shrine (maybe Shinto reference). I asked a couple of people to take my pictures. Then, I proceeded to Kyoto Handicraft Center. Some people seemed amused and surprised to see a foreigner by herself...giggling school boys. Rushed back in time for the Banquet Reception. Prince 'Forgot-his-name' was the guest of honor. Very ceremonial with a lot of bowing and men in traditional clothing playing music. After some tedious speeches, we settled down for a four-course dinner...
June 19, Monday
Reached Kyoto in the evening. Westin Miyako was very contemporary. Enchanting. In fact, I have never encountered ornate style in Japanese (ancient or modern) art. The staff were breathless in their efforts to please. Obliging, effusive, gentle...Americans could take a leaf out of their books in terms of gentleness. No vulgar and ornate art anywhere. I was reminded of our Infancy conference in Chicago Hilton which was so different. The beds were supremely comfortable and I never notice these things ever! Kyoto is surrounded by lush mountains. It is not crowded. I could see some traditional architecture from the sixth floor (my room number was 6059). Met R and her entourage and went to a small place for dinner. I just ate salad...just wary of the possibility of meat or fish in other dishes. Collapsed on my bed that night. It had been a long day.
June 20, Tuesday
I registered for the conference and got my award after some hand-wringing and fretting by the staff just because they were 15 minutes late. I proceeded towards the poster session...will not elaborate on the conference...Exception: I was really nervous about my poster. It went without a hitch. Met K after 2 years and she was skinnier. Sweet and interested.
In the afternoon, we decided to go to the Nijo Castle. Met J and D at the hotel. J was busy comparing Japan and Korea throughout his trip (he is of Korean origin). He did not have a high opinion of Japan. Some bad blood between the two countries.
Nijo Castle was not very old. Samurais had lived here till 1850s. The floors creaked as we walked barefoot on them. These floors are famously known as Nightingale floors. The squeaking did remind me of birds chirping. It was simple with clean cuts...very different from the palaces I have seen earlier. Different scenes were depicted in the palace with life size figures (e.g. ladies-in-waiting and maids attending the samurais; samurais in the kings' courts). There was a famous painting on one of the walls of a leopard. The Eyewitness Guide states that Japanese artists actually believed that leopards were 'female tigers' for the longest time. Rushed through the rock garden as the palace was closing at 5 pm...American-style timings. We went to a 7-11 for water and ice-cream. A lady from the store ran a long-distance after us just to return the map. We were impressed. Turned into another alley full of quaint little shops. I bought wind chimes. Saw some Indian material (incense, woodwork, artwork).
Later in the evening, Dr S (native of Japan) took us all (R and her entourage included) to a traditional Japanese restaurant. We sat on the cushions on the floor near low tables...and the food kept coming...Dr S was sweet and remembered vegetarian options for me. The amounts were small..served on exquisite, tiny dishes..Very little spice but still flavorful..Great eggplant. It was dimly lit. Kyoto seems more traditional than rest of the country. I saw a couple of men and women in kimonos.
After the long traditional dinner, we roamed the streets for a while. We ran into a 7-11 (recurring theme, it seems) which had cans of oxygen with different flavors (mint, grapefruit)! It was a hilarious situation. R, C and Dr M bought oxygen and inhaled it. They broke into peals of laughter. Dr S translated the label for us..'For modern people facing a lot of stress'. It was a wonderful night.
June 21, Wednesday
My poster session went smoothly. I decided to explore Kyoto on my own. Walked to Heian shrine. It was spectacular even from a distance. It's orange-red color stood in stark contrast to the sky and the mountains. This shrine was constructed to commemorate Kyoto as the capital. The emperor was the major deity of this shrine (maybe Shinto reference). I asked a couple of people to take my pictures. Then, I proceeded to Kyoto Handicraft Center. Some people seemed amused and surprised to see a foreigner by herself...giggling school boys. Rushed back in time for the Banquet Reception. Prince 'Forgot-his-name' was the guest of honor. Very ceremonial with a lot of bowing and men in traditional clothing playing music. After some tedious speeches, we settled down for a four-course dinner...
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Japan 2006...Nagoya, Fujiyoshida and Tokyo
These diary entries are from my visit to Japan in June 2006. I might have written differently if I had gone now....but I will stay faithful to the original entries.
Thursday, June 15, 2006
8:55 am , Roanoke Airport
Waiting for the 9:56 am flight to Chicago from where we fly to JAPAN. Am pretty excited!
Saturday, June 17, 2006
7:15 am, Nagoya
Arrived here last night with M. The plane stopped at Kansai Osaka International Airport. As N expected, everything was super-organized. I have yet to see a more sparkling clean airport. Not fancy or flashy. In fact, Japan uptil now seems extremely clean. Even the back alleys I saw on the train from Osaka to Nagoya were dirt free and the air seemed clean and fresh. Tokyo is probably different I think.. On the train, I was besotted by the countryside - neat paddy fields, artistic houses (with the typical greyish/brownish colored roofs like a pagoda) and bright cars which look very efficient (no ugly SUVs or even big cars). Saw Toyota Corollas as taxis. People drive smaller cars here.
Uptil now, a remarkable feature of Japan is the quietness/stillness which emanates from everything. Noise levels are very low especially to the ear of a person raised in the cacophony of India. People are very sweet and courteous. Dad would love Japan - cleanest people ever. I think I read somewhere that cleanliness is a synonym of beauty in Japanese culture. How apt. People are little too..It is difficult to spot mature-looking men and women (according to my untrained eye). It seems they go straight from adolescence to old age physically. Surprisingly, I saw a lot of school girls in uniform. I read a novel, Kinshu (Autumn Brocade) by the Japanese author Teru Miyamoto (good book- emotional upheavals of ex-spouses) where the schoolgirls on the trains are described.
The dress code is predominantly western (as I expected). Males in dark suits and females in skirts or dresses (short). One thing I noted was that several Japanese women (in fact all of them) are slim with thick legs. Anomalous? Great skin and hair but personally speaking Chinese and Korean girls are prettier (so far).
We are staying at a youth hostel with a room of our own. It is in Japanese style. Bamboo mats line the sleeping area (90% of the floor). There is a low table with a thermos flask with hot water, blue teapot and little cups with a box of green tea bags. Had a cup an hour ago.[There is a clothesline strategically placed over the AC. N would love it...and the windows open too!]
Very charming. There are slippers available near the entrance of the room and the bathrooms so that you remove your shoes and wear the slippers. Not to forget, horror of horrors, communal bathrooms! Was forced to use it yesterday as badly needed a shower. There was no one last night except an effusive young thing (who was not embarrassed at all). I waited for her to leave and took a shower hurriedly. An older woman entered and she bowed. Multiple faucets and a jacuzzi where people take a final dip. I did not try it.
As expected, finding vegetarian food was problematic especially with the language barrier. Nagoya is not a common tourist destination, it seems. People tried to help. At 7-11 yesterday (yes, they are ubiquitous), a young man and a woman tried to help me a lot but because of cash problems,I had to go to another place. Got a couple of odd looks yesterday probably because people are not used to foreigners here. Will visit Nagoya castle tomorrow.
3:15 pm
We are on the train to Mount Fuji. Spent some time in Nagoya. Went to the Nagoya Castle which had been bombed during WW II but several parts had been recovered, Reconstruction is still going on. It was surrounded by a dry moat filled with pebbles. It was very humid and I am still sweating. One of the girls who assisted me with an ATM at the Nagoya train station asked, 'Why did you come to Japan in such bad weather?'
In the castle, saw pieces of art...a replica of figures hauling rocks to build the moat. Went to the Ninomaru Garden and Teahouse which is nearby. The word on the street is that if you drink tea in this teahouse, you add 5 years to your life. They served us cake (more like jelly) and bowls of green tea. Got my picture taken with smiling, pretty kimono-clad hostesses. It was a very serene place. Japanese decor is delicate and exquisite. Would love to incorporate it in my own home. Also, ate green tea icecream near the castle. Very few foreigners. An Indian family (lady in churidar) just passed me. Then, we visited 3 shrines near the city hall (shinto - shrine; buddhist - temple). Blue, purple and pink hydrangeas encircled some of the shrines. All of the shrines have a little enclosure with water for people to wash their hands and drink. A man indicated this to us by miming it. Ate at a small place in JR Nagoya station where I managed to get a cucumber salad with sweetish- reddish beans and a tofu dish. She asked us about our countries (in fact guessed mine- India) and said we had good eyes. The train from Nagoya to Fuji involved 2 stops (Nagoya to Otuski and Otuski to Fuji). Very scenic countryside. Big green mountains and streams with rocks (somehow reminded me of Madhopur). Very different from South-West Virginia and the East coast of the US (even Smokies). Needless to say, I find this more appealing. Was nauseous most of the time. So I could not appreciate it more. Reached Fuji station at night. Bought few groceries (milk, juice, fruits) at a mall in the train station.
We took a cab to our hotel which turned out to be another charming Japanese place (Ryokan, I think). Very traditional. Saw real flowers in vases with cotton plants (interesting combination) all over. I took a shower with really cold water. Slept like a log. Saw some World Cup (Football) action on TV with M - Argentina thrashing Serbia & Montenegro 5-0.
Woke up around 7 am. Ate a very traditional Japanese breakfast seated on cushions near very low table.
Menu: salad (greens, onions)
Miso soup with tofu (did not eat because of fear of fish broth)
Plain tofu
Rice
Seaweed wrapped
Pickled vegetables with tofu (cabbage, carrots)
Egg (was being slowly cooked in front of us on fire as we ate! did not know the covered dish contained an egg!)
Saw the lush greenery outside the windows and rain dripping down the leaves. Then we decided to look around. Walked to a cluster of ponds which faces Mount Fuji....but it was so cloudy that day, we could not see the mountain. Wisps of clouds floated over the mountains. Ethereal! It was either drizzling or raining most of the time. Saw 2 big yellow fishes in a small pond. Went to a shop which was perched right next to a pond with 2 cranes who were the cynosure of all eyes. This shop had souvenirs and traditional food. I got a thermometer for home and chopsticks. Hiked further and saw a desolate shrine. M wanted some cash and we hunted for an ATM. We found a post office and her spirits rose.
While returning from the post office, we came across a shrine where monks were reading scriptures (?) followed by chanting. It was raining heavily now. We sat in an enclosure facing the sanctorum. Memorable experience. Wish N and Dad were here.
I explored the back side of the shrine and stumbled on a huge cemetery which was packed (very little space between headstones). The cemetery was 'guarded' by a huge grey statue of a woman holding an infant (could not figure out who this might be) and in front of her, smaller grey-colored statues wearing red capes. A family in black came out of the shrine...funeral?
Left this place...and returned to the shop where I ate a hot rice cake stuffed with beans...sweet. I bought 3 different kinds of rice cakes (Mochi).
June 18, 2006
We returned to our Ryokan and packed our bags and the kind gentleman (who was transfixed by baseball on TV) called a cab for us. He had lent me a raincoat earlier in the day.We bade him good bye and Arigato.
As our train started approaching Tokyo, I saw greater number of buildings and the countryside disappeared. One thing I noted was that even in the dingiest building, some form of greenery was prevalent. Japanese love plants. Almost every shop has flowers growing in pots. Exceptionally healthy plants. Saw the ubiquitous Americans signs of MNCs...KFCs, McDonalds, 7-11s....shudder!
Trudged with our bags to the Tokyo Hostel where the receptionist (African guy) spoke fluent English. This hotel is packed with Caucasians (primarily from Australia and the UK). An older, verbose Chinese guy from Amsterdam told me about his journeys in Japan and China. He asked me, 'Are you shy to talk?'...amusing.
This hostel is very different from Madrid's...bamboo matting all over the floor; Japanese artwork on the walls. We don't wear shoes or slippers except in the bathroom. A common kitchen-dining area adjoining the living room with a big TV. World Cup was a hot topic. Aussies and Britons seem even less inhibited than Americans. We went out for dinner. M was out of cash and had not checked before ordering food and drinks (thought credit would work). Managed to get help from an Aussie from the hostel by exchanging dollars for yen...interesting transaction.
I visited my 'favorite' 7-11 for milk and a funny-looking ice cream (banana coated with a chocobar...cheap and yummy).
9:15 am
Right now, I am sitting in the living room. There is an Asian guy who is doing yoga...lithe
I headed out to Akasuka. It was hot and humid as usual and I was ready with an umbrella and sunglasses. I wore my flowery, breezy skirt and peach top. Walked on alone with trepidation...did not want to lose my way. Asked (or rather confirmed) the route with several people along the way. Streets were full of people. I stopped at a shop filled with the unique dishes of Japan...I fell in love with these dishes in the restaurants. While I was examining the wares, a couple of clowns beating big drums passed by. One of them greeted me heartily. and asked ,'From India?'..I was bewildered as I said yes. He said..'beautiful'..and went merrily his way..India is beautiful...most unique place I have seen.
I picked up several pieces in this shop where two very courteous people moved silently in the background as I peeked in all the nooks and cranies of the shop. Very different from the aggressive advertising among Indian shopkeepers..:)
I moved on further and suddenly reached the typical doorway with red cyclindrical objects painted with the Japanese script. This doorway to the shrine was followed by a long bazaar-like alley. Some tacky and ornate stuff on display. Ate Japanese apricot ice-cream, which was fresh and flavorful. Rummaged in several shops....reached the shrine at last. It was surrounded by a garden. There was a huge urn in front of the shrine in which some wooden objects were burning, Some Japanese people were trying to inhale it with their hands (akin to the Indians waving their hands on the pooja thaali). I bought a special wooden object on which I wrote my name and age and gave it to the lady who told me that the priest would burn these wooden plates.
Supposedly, there are several types of these plates signifying things like longevity, desires and dreams, healing sickness, etcc. I chose the 'desires and dreams'...well, one always has some..:)
The Buddhist philosophy, I think emphasizes freedom from desires and dreams as the ultimate goal. This might be a Shinto shrine..?..(I checked..it is a Buddhist temple). Sadly, the history was not available in English. Returned to the hotel at 2:30 pm and started for Kyoto in a Bullet Shikhsai train. Did not seem any faster but it did reach Kyoto earlier than other trains. The countryside did not seem particularly enchanting...maybe I was tired hauling luggage around in the humidity.
Kyoto next..
Thursday, June 15, 2006
8:55 am , Roanoke Airport
Waiting for the 9:56 am flight to Chicago from where we fly to JAPAN. Am pretty excited!
Saturday, June 17, 2006
7:15 am, Nagoya
Arrived here last night with M. The plane stopped at Kansai Osaka International Airport. As N expected, everything was super-organized. I have yet to see a more sparkling clean airport. Not fancy or flashy. In fact, Japan uptil now seems extremely clean. Even the back alleys I saw on the train from Osaka to Nagoya were dirt free and the air seemed clean and fresh. Tokyo is probably different I think.. On the train, I was besotted by the countryside - neat paddy fields, artistic houses (with the typical greyish/brownish colored roofs like a pagoda) and bright cars which look very efficient (no ugly SUVs or even big cars). Saw Toyota Corollas as taxis. People drive smaller cars here.
Uptil now, a remarkable feature of Japan is the quietness/stillness which emanates from everything. Noise levels are very low especially to the ear of a person raised in the cacophony of India. People are very sweet and courteous. Dad would love Japan - cleanest people ever. I think I read somewhere that cleanliness is a synonym of beauty in Japanese culture. How apt. People are little too..It is difficult to spot mature-looking men and women (according to my untrained eye). It seems they go straight from adolescence to old age physically. Surprisingly, I saw a lot of school girls in uniform. I read a novel, Kinshu (Autumn Brocade) by the Japanese author Teru Miyamoto (good book- emotional upheavals of ex-spouses) where the schoolgirls on the trains are described.
The dress code is predominantly western (as I expected). Males in dark suits and females in skirts or dresses (short). One thing I noted was that several Japanese women (in fact all of them) are slim with thick legs. Anomalous? Great skin and hair but personally speaking Chinese and Korean girls are prettier (so far).
We are staying at a youth hostel with a room of our own. It is in Japanese style. Bamboo mats line the sleeping area (90% of the floor). There is a low table with a thermos flask with hot water, blue teapot and little cups with a box of green tea bags. Had a cup an hour ago.[There is a clothesline strategically placed over the AC. N would love it...and the windows open too!]
Very charming. There are slippers available near the entrance of the room and the bathrooms so that you remove your shoes and wear the slippers. Not to forget, horror of horrors, communal bathrooms! Was forced to use it yesterday as badly needed a shower. There was no one last night except an effusive young thing (who was not embarrassed at all). I waited for her to leave and took a shower hurriedly. An older woman entered and she bowed. Multiple faucets and a jacuzzi where people take a final dip. I did not try it.
As expected, finding vegetarian food was problematic especially with the language barrier. Nagoya is not a common tourist destination, it seems. People tried to help. At 7-11 yesterday (yes, they are ubiquitous), a young man and a woman tried to help me a lot but because of cash problems,I had to go to another place. Got a couple of odd looks yesterday probably because people are not used to foreigners here. Will visit Nagoya castle tomorrow.
3:15 pm
We are on the train to Mount Fuji. Spent some time in Nagoya. Went to the Nagoya Castle which had been bombed during WW II but several parts had been recovered, Reconstruction is still going on. It was surrounded by a dry moat filled with pebbles. It was very humid and I am still sweating. One of the girls who assisted me with an ATM at the Nagoya train station asked, 'Why did you come to Japan in such bad weather?'
In the castle, saw pieces of art...a replica of figures hauling rocks to build the moat. Went to the Ninomaru Garden and Teahouse which is nearby. The word on the street is that if you drink tea in this teahouse, you add 5 years to your life. They served us cake (more like jelly) and bowls of green tea. Got my picture taken with smiling, pretty kimono-clad hostesses. It was a very serene place. Japanese decor is delicate and exquisite. Would love to incorporate it in my own home. Also, ate green tea icecream near the castle. Very few foreigners. An Indian family (lady in churidar) just passed me. Then, we visited 3 shrines near the city hall (shinto - shrine; buddhist - temple). Blue, purple and pink hydrangeas encircled some of the shrines. All of the shrines have a little enclosure with water for people to wash their hands and drink. A man indicated this to us by miming it. Ate at a small place in JR Nagoya station where I managed to get a cucumber salad with sweetish- reddish beans and a tofu dish. She asked us about our countries (in fact guessed mine- India) and said we had good eyes. The train from Nagoya to Fuji involved 2 stops (Nagoya to Otuski and Otuski to Fuji). Very scenic countryside. Big green mountains and streams with rocks (somehow reminded me of Madhopur). Very different from South-West Virginia and the East coast of the US (even Smokies). Needless to say, I find this more appealing. Was nauseous most of the time. So I could not appreciate it more. Reached Fuji station at night. Bought few groceries (milk, juice, fruits) at a mall in the train station.
We took a cab to our hotel which turned out to be another charming Japanese place (Ryokan, I think). Very traditional. Saw real flowers in vases with cotton plants (interesting combination) all over. I took a shower with really cold water. Slept like a log. Saw some World Cup (Football) action on TV with M - Argentina thrashing Serbia & Montenegro 5-0.
Woke up around 7 am. Ate a very traditional Japanese breakfast seated on cushions near very low table.
Menu: salad (greens, onions)
Miso soup with tofu (did not eat because of fear of fish broth)
Plain tofu
Rice
Seaweed wrapped
Pickled vegetables with tofu (cabbage, carrots)
Egg (was being slowly cooked in front of us on fire as we ate! did not know the covered dish contained an egg!)
Saw the lush greenery outside the windows and rain dripping down the leaves. Then we decided to look around. Walked to a cluster of ponds which faces Mount Fuji....but it was so cloudy that day, we could not see the mountain. Wisps of clouds floated over the mountains. Ethereal! It was either drizzling or raining most of the time. Saw 2 big yellow fishes in a small pond. Went to a shop which was perched right next to a pond with 2 cranes who were the cynosure of all eyes. This shop had souvenirs and traditional food. I got a thermometer for home and chopsticks. Hiked further and saw a desolate shrine. M wanted some cash and we hunted for an ATM. We found a post office and her spirits rose.
While returning from the post office, we came across a shrine where monks were reading scriptures (?) followed by chanting. It was raining heavily now. We sat in an enclosure facing the sanctorum. Memorable experience. Wish N and Dad were here.
I explored the back side of the shrine and stumbled on a huge cemetery which was packed (very little space between headstones). The cemetery was 'guarded' by a huge grey statue of a woman holding an infant (could not figure out who this might be) and in front of her, smaller grey-colored statues wearing red capes. A family in black came out of the shrine...funeral?
Left this place...and returned to the shop where I ate a hot rice cake stuffed with beans...sweet. I bought 3 different kinds of rice cakes (Mochi).
June 18, 2006
We returned to our Ryokan and packed our bags and the kind gentleman (who was transfixed by baseball on TV) called a cab for us. He had lent me a raincoat earlier in the day.We bade him good bye and Arigato.
As our train started approaching Tokyo, I saw greater number of buildings and the countryside disappeared. One thing I noted was that even in the dingiest building, some form of greenery was prevalent. Japanese love plants. Almost every shop has flowers growing in pots. Exceptionally healthy plants. Saw the ubiquitous Americans signs of MNCs...KFCs, McDonalds, 7-11s....shudder!
Trudged with our bags to the Tokyo Hostel where the receptionist (African guy) spoke fluent English. This hotel is packed with Caucasians (primarily from Australia and the UK). An older, verbose Chinese guy from Amsterdam told me about his journeys in Japan and China. He asked me, 'Are you shy to talk?'...amusing.
This hostel is very different from Madrid's...bamboo matting all over the floor; Japanese artwork on the walls. We don't wear shoes or slippers except in the bathroom. A common kitchen-dining area adjoining the living room with a big TV. World Cup was a hot topic. Aussies and Britons seem even less inhibited than Americans. We went out for dinner. M was out of cash and had not checked before ordering food and drinks (thought credit would work). Managed to get help from an Aussie from the hostel by exchanging dollars for yen...interesting transaction.
I visited my 'favorite' 7-11 for milk and a funny-looking ice cream (banana coated with a chocobar...cheap and yummy).
9:15 am
Right now, I am sitting in the living room. There is an Asian guy who is doing yoga...lithe
I headed out to Akasuka. It was hot and humid as usual and I was ready with an umbrella and sunglasses. I wore my flowery, breezy skirt and peach top. Walked on alone with trepidation...did not want to lose my way. Asked (or rather confirmed) the route with several people along the way. Streets were full of people. I stopped at a shop filled with the unique dishes of Japan...I fell in love with these dishes in the restaurants. While I was examining the wares, a couple of clowns beating big drums passed by. One of them greeted me heartily. and asked ,'From India?'..I was bewildered as I said yes. He said..'beautiful'..and went merrily his way..India is beautiful...most unique place I have seen.
I picked up several pieces in this shop where two very courteous people moved silently in the background as I peeked in all the nooks and cranies of the shop. Very different from the aggressive advertising among Indian shopkeepers..:)
I moved on further and suddenly reached the typical doorway with red cyclindrical objects painted with the Japanese script. This doorway to the shrine was followed by a long bazaar-like alley. Some tacky and ornate stuff on display. Ate Japanese apricot ice-cream, which was fresh and flavorful. Rummaged in several shops....reached the shrine at last. It was surrounded by a garden. There was a huge urn in front of the shrine in which some wooden objects were burning, Some Japanese people were trying to inhale it with their hands (akin to the Indians waving their hands on the pooja thaali). I bought a special wooden object on which I wrote my name and age and gave it to the lady who told me that the priest would burn these wooden plates.
Supposedly, there are several types of these plates signifying things like longevity, desires and dreams, healing sickness, etcc. I chose the 'desires and dreams'...well, one always has some..:)
The Buddhist philosophy, I think emphasizes freedom from desires and dreams as the ultimate goal. This might be a Shinto shrine..?..(I checked..it is a Buddhist temple). Sadly, the history was not available in English. Returned to the hotel at 2:30 pm and started for Kyoto in a Bullet Shikhsai train. Did not seem any faster but it did reach Kyoto earlier than other trains. The countryside did not seem particularly enchanting...maybe I was tired hauling luggage around in the humidity.
Kyoto next..
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Laugh and cry- daily feature
What made you laugh...and cry today?
Cry (teary) when I read this quote by Keats
I long to believe in immortality. . . . If I am destined to be happy with you here--how short is the longest life. I wish to believe in immortality--I wish to live with you forever. - Keats
Laugh (silliest thing)
I mixed the two words 'elderly and old' and said olderly in class...and then laughed out aloud...along with the students..
Monday, September 14, 2009
Kuch experiences...
Idlis paired with fresh salsa (tomatoes + onions + chillies + garlic + lemon juice + cider vinegar + salt + pepper)
Greek yoghurt + peeled fresh peaches + walnuts...pour honey on this mix = jannat
Rain + thunder + lightning + night + no work = dramatic bliss
Bazaars in India + rickshaws + layers of clothes sprawled in front + (how do I say it is waay over the top...'please something less flashy')
Jasmine flowers + breeze + temple + tender coconut water
Railway platform in India + vendors + holding my breath (record time) + heart racing + slow start of the trains...will someone miss the train?
Sun signs.....period
Greek yoghurt + peeled fresh peaches + walnuts...pour honey on this mix = jannat
Rain + thunder + lightning + night + no work = dramatic bliss
Bazaars in India + rickshaws + layers of clothes sprawled in front + (how do I say it is waay over the top...'please something less flashy')
Jasmine flowers + breeze + temple + tender coconut water
Railway platform in India + vendors + holding my breath (record time) + heart racing + slow start of the trains...will someone miss the train?
Sun signs.....period
Eclectic
Eclectic names....I wanted to select a name encapsulating a few of my favorite things....Mawsynram is possibly the wettest place on earth...in my favorite part of the world. And the way the word Mawsynram swirls in my mouth... ultimately settling in..delicious.
Rain and lots of rain is my idea of paradise (jannat...love the language)...and I often live in khwaab-istan (dreamland)...so arose Mawsynram khwaab. I want to write about my experiences, thoughts, opinions on zillions of things...
And I will start compiling a list I can dwell on and write..and...and...and I will write like no one is going to read this ever...(of course I live on the 'effusive praise' diet)
My List of interests (alphabetically):
Amour
Brave souls, books, body language
Charm (and lack of)
Dance, drama
Elephants, elegance, eyes (body language)
FOOD, Finesse, fashion, fights (civilized and the other kind)
Green
Hotness (multiple possibilities...:), Hindi movies
Incredible !ndia
Jaan
Kismat
Lemons, lips (body language)
Mist, mornings, mmm, music
Novelty (always fun?)
Ominous clouds, behavior
Peers, pity
Qismat
Random things, reviews, recipes
Sweet and sour (the best combo), spicy, sleep, signs
Trees, temples, tamarind, traffic
Umbrellas, United States
Victory
What, where, why, when, whom....whatever is whacko
XX and XY
Yaar log
Zindabaad, zephyr, zzzzz...
So here's to some fun times!
Rain and lots of rain is my idea of paradise (jannat...love the language)...and I often live in khwaab-istan (dreamland)...so arose Mawsynram khwaab. I want to write about my experiences, thoughts, opinions on zillions of things...
And I will start compiling a list I can dwell on and write..and...and...and I will write like no one is going to read this ever...(of course I live on the 'effusive praise' diet)
My List of interests (alphabetically):
Amour
Brave souls, books, body language
Charm (and lack of)
Dance, drama
Elephants, elegance, eyes (body language)
FOOD, Finesse, fashion, fights (civilized and the other kind)
Green
Hotness (multiple possibilities...:), Hindi movies
Incredible !ndia
Jaan
Kismat
Lemons, lips (body language)
Mist, mornings, mmm, music
Novelty (always fun?)
Ominous clouds, behavior
Peers, pity
Qismat
Random things, reviews, recipes
Sweet and sour (the best combo), spicy, sleep, signs
Trees, temples, tamarind, traffic
Umbrellas, United States
Victory
What, where, why, when, whom....whatever is whacko
XX and XY
Yaar log
Zindabaad, zephyr, zzzzz...
So here's to some fun times!
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